Ascent of Ruth Mountain on 2018-07-14

Climber: Owen Gabrielson

Date:Saturday, July 14, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Ruth Mountain
    Elevation:7115 ft / 2168 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left the parking lot at 9:30 am. Uneventful hike and climb to Ruth's summit. On getting to camp for Icy the next day was not perfect. We descender the glacier to the west; I think we should have stayed on the rock. We rejoined the rock below and crossed over and through. The glacier was pretty steep requiring some of us to descend a few portions backwards, self-belaying and kicking steps down.

Got to camp uneventfully. Melted tons of snow (not water sources). It was a HOT day and gonna be hotter the next day.

Left for Icy at 5 am. A dad and son were ascending up the gulley that evening 6 or 7 so? We were able to see the route coming up. It's on skier's left. It's tougher to find on the way up than down. There are cairns here and there, but not reliably. We did not ascend up the ridge to Icy, but once we got to it, we traversed the glacier low and then went up. We saw a boot path that went up the ridge and traversed high. Either works. Our route was more direct to the saddle looking up right.

The gulley was obvious. 4th Class scrambling. We set a hand line. I've read a 60m rope will work for rapping it. Since we had an extra rope, we added a rap ring, threaded its end through our new ring and the existing one, and tied it to our hand line that we had set up. Voila--double rope rappel which sent folks almost all the way down to the snow, out of the way of rock fall. About 7.5 hours or so from camp to Icy and back.

Took an hour at camp to rest, re-hydrate and got out of Dodge. The worst in this order were 1) the prolonged 4 mile relatively flat hike out of Hannegan Pass (the trail that seemingly never ended); and 2) the gulley down to Hannegan Pass.

Best was the views of Shucksan and Mt. Blum.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Tent Camp
Ascent Part of Trip: Ruth Mountain and Icy Peak Traverse (1 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Ruth Mountain2018-07-14 
2Icy Peak2018-07-15 

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