Ascent of Mount Logan on 2017-09-04

Climber: Fred Newman

Other People:Solo Ascent
Date:Monday, September 4, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Logan
    Elevation:9087 ft / 2769 m

Ascent Trip Report

Evening departure into Fisher Creek basin via Easy Pass. Couldn't find Cosho Camp at the Douglas Glacier drainage creek so I bivied by the river. I found later that that camp is about a mile east down the trail so no good for me anyway. I found a way across the creek around 5 am and moved through open forest following game trails for about a mile. A heinous bushwhack across the avy slope between about 4000' and 4600'. After crossing to the W side of the creek at 4600' I made what in retrospect was an error and continued straight towards the pillbox. Ledge slabs drove me into the bush. I endured some 300' of terrible vertical bushwhacking through the cliff band, emerging physically battered and mentally scarred at 5300'. Traversed around to the glacier and easily picked through the easy to spot crevasses, eventually reaching the col with Banded Glacier at 8600'. Short scramble to the summit block from there, then back down the Douglas. Not wanting to relive the bushwhack, or perhaps rolling the dice believing that any other way down would be less difficult, I traveled from the glacier more directly east to a bench around 6000', then descended steep grassy and chossy slopes to the drainage that funnels through ~5400'. Marshy travel, some light bushwhacking, and a near fall off a 10' slope into the rowdy creek got me back to the heinous bushwhack. I reached my overnight goodies around 10 pm and rested a little. Since I had to be at work in less than 12 hours I steeled myself for the grind back up and over Easy Pass, and reached the car by 2:30 am.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:10800 ft / 3291 m
    Total Elevation Loss:5600 ft / 1706 m
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8000 ft / 2438 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 5200 ft / 1585 m; Extra: 2800 ft / 853m
    Loss on way in:2800 ft / 853 m
    Route:Douglas Glacier
    Start Trailhead:bivy along Fisher Creek  3887 ft / 1184 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2800 ft / 853 m
    Gain on way out:2800 ft / 853 m

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