Ascent of Mount Gilbert on 2018-05-11

Climber: Rafee Memon

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Friday, May 11, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Gilbert
    Elevation:13106 ft / 3994 m

Ascent Trip Report

I initially planned to climb both Mount Gilbert and Mount Johnson but decided I would make a judgement call coming down from Gilbert. I started on the Bishop Pass Trail from South Lake at 6:10am. I turned onto the Treasure Lakes cutoff, and pretty quickly the trail became difficult to follow due to significant snow cover. I crossed through a complex creek system and strapped on my crampons. I crossed back over the South Fork Bishop Creek, getting wet up to my knees in the process; I stopped to wring out my socks and carried on (I found a bridge near this spot on the way down). I reached Treasure Lakes around 8:20am. I tried to pass between the two lakes and start the ascent to Treasure Col, but I wasn't able to find a creek crossing that I was comfortable with. I decided to walk around the north side of the west lake, which turned out to be pretty bushwhacky. I (mistakenly) ascended the snow slope to the southwest of the lakes. From the top of the slope, I saw what I believed to be Treasure Col at the back of the bowl, but I was unable to see any of the other nearby routes that I'd read about. About halfway across the bowl, it occured to me that I had ascended the wrong slope, and Treasure Col was in the next bowl to the south. Not having the energy to descend back to the lakes and ascend the correct bowl, I decided I would attempt the col that I was headed towards, which looked passable from my vantage point. Luckily I was able to ascend the col, which reached 45 degrees in spots. I topped out at 10:50am, at which point I got my first clear view of Gilbert on the other side of the slope. I ascended up the snow and rocks and reached the summit at 11:42am. Views we expansive and impressive from the Palisade to the Evolution Basin. The last entry in the summit register was from November 17. I started my descent at 12:15pm; feeling pretty spent, I opted to skip Johnson. I reached my car at 3:44pm, finding enjoyment out of long glissades down the Gilbert slope, the col, and the slope above Treasure Lakes. Amusingly, my slide mark above the lake was visible from the trailhead. This was an exhausting and miserable day due to postholing nearly every step, and I took an off day the next day before climbing Dade.

Stats: 5h32m up, 33m at summit, 3h29m down, 12.8 miles, ~3,700ft gained.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3706 ft / 1129 m
    Total Elevation Loss:400 ft / 121 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Partly Cloudy
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3706 ft / 1129 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 3306 ft / 1007 m; Extra: 400 ft / 121m
    Loss on way in:400 ft / 121 m
    Distance:12.8 mi / 20.6 km
    Route:N Treasure Col
    Start Trailhead:South Lake  9800 ft / 2987 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Rafee Memon
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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