Ascent of Rysy-North Peak on 2017-10-01

Climber: Matt Horbal

Date:Sunday, October 1, 2017
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Rysy-North Peak
    Elevation:6650 ft / 2026 m

Ascent Trip Report

Usually wouldn't post a TR for an unsuccessful trip, but wanted to post some logistical details for attempting Rysy/Rysy-North Peak from the Polish side.

The trailhead is a large parking lot. Google Maps has it as Palencia Bialczanska and had no trouble routing me there. It's a 30-40 minute drive from Zakopane It gets very parked up there especially on the weekends so an early start is mandatory. I parked at 5AM and there were already about 10 cars there. Parking costs 25 zloty cash and there was an attendant there to take my money when I arrived.

From the TH to Morskie Oko is a very unintersting 8km walk up a paved road. There are a couple signed and maintained walking trails that cut some of the switchbacks and save some time. On the way back there is a bar 1 hour or so from the TH that you can get a beer for 9zt.

From Morskie Oko the route is signed and circles clockwise (left side when ascending) around Morskie Oko before climbing steeply to Czarny Staw (The Black Pond). From there, signed again, the trail goes left clockwise around the lake before starting to climb steeply. As the trail starts to climb try to stay with the trail markers (white rectangles with a red horizontal band painted on rocks) as I found the trail easier. It seemed that at one point that the trail was reasonably well constructed but time, off trail shortcuts, and erosion have taken their toll.

At a little above 6650' I encountered hard ice covering the trail and lacking crampons was forced to descend. I did not reach the chains.

If you want to see someone else's go pro video of the chain section see as an example.

Summary Total Data
    Route:Standard Polish
    Trailhead:Palenica Bialczanska  -9999 ft / -3047 m
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail

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