Ascent of Seven Fingered Jack on 2017-08-26

Climber: Connor McEntee

Date:Saturday, August 26, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Seven Fingered Jack
    Elevation:9100 ft / 2773 m

Ascent Trip Report

We tagged 7FJ on the way back to camp from climbing Fernow. I would not recommend the exact route we took. My partner saw a ledge system and did not want to lose any elevation, so we traversed as far as we could from the saddle. Lots of big rocks came down. I think I would have descended a bit further and taken one or two of the gulleys coming down from 7FJ's southwest ridge. It appeared that there were routes in there that stayed more consistently on rock rather than loose slopes.

We traversed and gained elevation until we reached the ridge. We even ran into an enormous billy mountain goat. He was happy to leave us alone, however. From the ridge, a climbers path marked with cairns starts to become evident and climbs all the way to the top. It turns out that we topped out one finger to the south but just climbed over it and to the summit. There were some exposed class 4 moves though.

The descent was a little tricky since we did not ascend the SW ridge route and there are braids of climbers paths. We found something that worked. The only mix up was near the end, when we reached the trees. I was a little ahead and lost my partner. After waiting a while and calling out, I figured we would just meet up in camp, which is what happened. Though I got there via the nice use trail that switchbacks down, and he bushwhacked through the trees straight down.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1605 ft / 489 m
    Total Elevation Loss:3200 ft / 975 m
    Round-Trip Distance:2.9 mi / 4.7 km
    Grade/Class:Class 3
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1605 ft / 489 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 1401 ft / 427 m; Extra: 204 ft / 62m
    Loss on way in:204 ft / 62 m
    Distance:1 mi / 1.6 km
    Route:Southwest Ridge
    Start Trailhead:Leroy/Gloomy Saddle  7699 ft / 2346 m
    Time:1 Hours 27 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2996 ft / 913 m
    Distance:1.9 mi / 3.1 km
    Route:Southwest Ridge
    End Trailhead:Leroy Basin  6104 ft / 1860 m
    Time:1 Hours 48 Minutes

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