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Ascent of Mount Stuart on 2017-08-19

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Saturday, August 19, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Stuart
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9415 ft / 2869 m

Ascent Trip Report

Ascent of Cascadian Coulior (AG I / Class 3). 5,215 net elevation / 7,815 cumulative elevation gain. That's 2,000 on approach with 1,300 loss, 4,515 summit day and 1,300 on the way regaining Long's Pass.

Party of two. Nik & H. Co-tf. First ascent of Mt Stuart for both of us.

About the route:
The Cascadian Coulior Route .... The entire experience is in the beautiful Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Mt Stuart is part of the Enchantments Stuart Zone which is a permitted camping section in Alpine Lakes. Luckily our campsite at Ingalls Creek is part of the wilderness but not in the permit zone.

Approach: We start by entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness from Esmeralda Trailhead / Lake Ingals Trail at 4,200 elevation. Self issue a Alpine Lakes Wilderness permit. Take the trail taking a right at the two junctions 1/2 mile and 1.5 miles in along Long's Pass Trail which terminates on the pass at 6,200 feet about 3 miles in. Then follow a faint class 2 climbers trail another mile or so downhill to Ingalls Creek Camp at 4,900. Beautiful forested area with plenty of camp spots. There's bugs.

Total approach: 4 miles, 2,000 elevation gain and 1,300 loss. 2 1/2 hours with an overnight pack.

Climb: Head cross country bearing NE to the base of the Cascadian Coulior at 6,500. It's a loose rock slog until 8,900 late season. Earlier in the season there would be steep snow requiring ice axe / crampons. There was none that couldn't be gone around on this trip. Then it's class 3 on mostly sold granite but watch for loose slabs. Pic the best route to gain the summit. Cairns may help but can also lead you astray. 4,716 net elevation gain on the climb from Ingalls Creek. 5 hours up without snow.

Descend: The way you came and it'll take almost as long as the climb. Allow allot of time to descent with the route finding and lose rock. You have to regain. 1,300 vertical feet on the way out via Long's Pass. You don't want to be route finding on the upper parts of the route in the dark. Alpine start required with snow and just early start otherwise but plan to summit by noon to avoid weather and hiking down in the dark. 4 hours down and 1 1/2 hours out from Ingals Camp with an overnight pack.

Gear: Helmet for rock fall, especially from parties above you. Trekking poles highly recommended. Ice axe & crampons unless you know for sure the route is snow free like we did. I recommend approach shoes late season. For snow conditions trail runners on the approach plus mountaineering boots for the climb.

The attached tracks were uploaded from Summitpost courtesy of Josh Lewis. See: https://www.summitpost.org/cascadian-couloir/156462
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7815 ft / 2381 m
    Extra Gain:1300 ft / 396 m
    Round-Trip Distance:14 mi / 22.5 km
    Route:Cascadian Coulior
    Trailhead:4200 ft / 1280 m
    Grade/Class:AG I / Class 3
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Time:7 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time:5 Hours 30 Minutes



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