Ascent of Kleinglockner on 2017-08-08

Climber: Caj Svensson

Date:Tuesday, August 8, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:12369 ft / 3770 m

Ascent Trip Report

We woke up at 4:30 in the Stüdlhütte for the 5 am breakfast. Left around 5:30 in twilight, following the trail towards the glacier. Went on to the Ködnitzkees glacier and got crampons on and roped up when it started to get steeper. Realized that the glacier part was shorter than I expected, or we made the traverse faster. Off the glacier on to rock and a Via Ferrata with wires almost all the way to the Erzherzog Johann-Hütte.

A short stop at the hut and then over rocks to the Kleinglocknerkees glacier. The glacier went steeper and we reached more rocks at 9:15. This was where the congestion started. Groups going up blended with groups going down, experienced groups blended with those without experience. We reached the Kleinglockner at 11, after almost two hours, and looked at the Großglockner and the line of people going up and down. After about 15 minutes, the same people where at the very same positions at the climb and we decided to go back. We estimated that it would take us between 1.5 and 2 hours to get to the summit and back to Kleinglockner.

On the way back to the glacier, the down climbing was even slower than the climbing and we repelled one part just to pass a few groups. It took us just over two hours to get back to the Kleinglocknerkees glacier. After 25 minutes more, we reached the hut and stopped in for coffee and apfelstrudl. Down the Via Ferrata together with two German guys. We roped up with them over the glacier and reached the Stüdlhütte at about 15:20. Continued down the trail and reached the car at 17:00 after 11,5 hours on the trail. We stopped for some bread and cheese on the way down to the car.

The day started nicely, but on the way up, clouds built up and the wind became stronger. On the Kleinglockner rock, the wind was strong and something to think of when walking on exposed parts. No view from the top this day.

It didn't feel safe on the top part of the mountain, with all people. If bad weather would have come in, there is no way to get fast off the mountain.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3179 ft / 968 m
    Total Elevation Loss:6070 ft / 1850 m
    Round-Trip Distance:8.8 mi / 14.1 km
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Hut Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Windy, Low Clouds
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3179 ft / 968 m
    Distance:2.8 mi / 4.5 km
    Start Trailhead:Stüdlhütte   9190 ft / 2801 m
    Time:5 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:6070 ft / 1850 m
    Distance:6 mi / 9.6 km
    End Trailhead:Lucknerhaus  6299 ft / 1919 m
    Time:6 Hours 0 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: 2017 Austria (1 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Fanotkogel2017-08-073199 ft / 975 m
2Kleinglockner2017-08-083179 ft / 969 m
3(Attempt) Großglockner2017-08-080 ft / 0 m
Total Trip Gain: 6378 ft / 1944 m    Total Trip Loss: 6408 ft / 1953 m
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Caj Svensson
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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