Ascent of Monte Civetta on 2017-07-31

Climber: Rob Woodall

Date:Monday, July 31, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Monte Civetta
    Elevation:10564 ft / 3219 m

Ascent Trip Report

Quite a tough day, 10h30 15km round trip from Rifugio Coldai; 1100m ascent plus 200m extra climb each way, sustained easyish ferrata mixed with easy scrambling on good rock and a couple of scree passages. Superb situations, great to be able to get up a Dolomite peak like this without technical climbing.

We took chairlift 0840 til 1715) from NE the previous pm after our morning ascent of Piz Boe having phoned ahead to book 2 beds. From top of chairlift a 50m descent then nice zigzag path with lovely views dominated by Monte Pelmo. Arrived at Rif Coldai in plenty of time for 1900 dinner, first enjoying a beer and superb views of an array of peaks. Thunderstorm overnight, fine morning.

Coldai breakfast at 0630 later than ideal (8hr guidebook time, we may be slower, last chairlift 1715, we should have started at 5) , away at 0705. Contouring path below awe-inspiring cliffs, through a minor col then a split with an easy Ferrata route (watch paint marks) going R and the Facile route descending L below a buttress. We take the shorter ferrata route although halfway up we somehow get onto the Facile route, not a bad combination. Through a rough rocky col, soon after which the Alleghe via ferrata route takes off up an impressive ramp line R; a couple of parties head up it but we stick to normal route. Descending 100m the path skirts a buttress then a sign indicates Rif Tozzana up to R, the main path soon crossing an icy looking snow slope. Scree ascent then leads to foot of the long ferrata section.

The ferrata climbs about 500m to the Rif Tozzana, alternating with easy scrambling and occasional scree/rubbly trail. 2nd section of ferrata on damp rock with a bolt pulled out, as Martin mentioned is best bypassed on the uphill side, as we too do on descent. Ascent continuously interesting with great views, a few other parties but no queuing, we let a few parties pass.

Glad to reach Tozzana hut, not least because I've left my water bottle on the route, buy a bottle plus we enjoy lemonade on the terrace. 16 bed hut in superb situation with friendly warden, would be a fine place to stay, and an afternoon ascent would be mostly in shade.

Final 200m ascent starts with short easy ferrata, then rubbly path and easy scrambling leads to summit cairn, with lower summit having the cross, register and a triangulation point with two witness marks. We rest a while enjoying gorgeous views and weather with a couple of hopeful alpine choughs hanging around. Then back to Tozzana hut for another drink, then enjoyable descent, crossing just below the bottom snow slope then back along foot of cliffs.

Back at Rif Coldai 1735; they are full but we get a slightly cheaper bed in the Laundry, another excellent meal and an early night.

Civetta photo album
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:19 ft / 5 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Aid Climb
    Gear Used:
Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:19 ft / 5 m
    Distance:4.7 mi / 7.6 km
    Start Trailhead:10545 ft / 3214 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Rob Woodall
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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