Ascent of Exfoliation Dome on 2017-07-15

Climber: Diana Yuen

Others in Party:Doug Beck
Date:Saturday, July 15, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Exfoliation Dome
    Elevation:4280 ft / 1304 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left Bellevue 5:30 am. Left TH at 8 am. 15 mins to Granite Sidewalk; about 45 mins from car to base of route.

Climb start 9:45.
Slung one tree. Wide (6") crack + slab.
End p1 10:05.

Start p2 10:11
Very nice lieback crack with good pro.
Doug climbed a thin finger crack to left. I would prefer the hand crack to the right.
End p2 10:58 (added 5 mins to free cam for other party).

Start p3 11:11
Very bad rope drag exiting to left from right hand corner.
Use a 70 m or belay mid-pitch (still rope drag if splitting).
Ended lead 11:45; started belaying 12:30 after prussiking back to last piece to remove rope drag.

Start p4 12:47
Combined p4 + partial p5.
Follow cracks as zig zag up slab.

Start partial p5 14:00
Run out slab, hollow flakes
Veer climbers right to get to bolt - slabs will be scary and dirty
Belay at obvious large tree w/tat on left facing corner
Route is run out dirty slab until the terrace

Reached terrace 15:22
Follow trail left and upward

Reached summit pitches (P8?) chains 16:40
Trend up and left, look for a single bolt
Watch for rope drag
Chain anchors

P9 summit pitch has one bolt and chain anchors
Very scary run out slab lead
End 17:38 top of summit pitches

Scramble to summit. More challenging than it appears.

Two bolts on southeast side of summit. Replaced tat.
Double rope (60m) rap to hard-to-see chains on slab.
Less than double rope rap to next set of chains on slab.
Double rope rap, veer climbers right!!! to next set of chains. Very bad pull and pendulum through trees if left.
Double rope rap down clean slabs - about four more. One is a single rope rap.
Last rap - aim for gully climber's right and scramble to base of route.

Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
    Weather:Pleasant, Breezy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Blueberry Buttress
Descent Statistics
    Route:Westward Ho!

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