Ascent of Chimney Rock on 2017-07-09

Climber: Rob Busack

Others in Party:Ben Stilin
Nick Anthony
Date:Sunday, July 9, 2017
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Chimney Rock
    Elevation:7550 ft / 2301 m

Ascent Trip Report

Attempt on the East Face Direct. Turned around two pitches shy of the summit do to lack of time.

3 days strongly recommended

It never felt like more than 5.5, however pro was sometimes scarce and some easy pitches were quite runout. Also, due to lack of traffic, dirt and lichen are present even when you're on route, making it a little more challenging. Rock shoes were not strictly necessary, but I think they allowed us to move quicker/more-confidently, especially given the runouts. We used one picket (dead-man) as a belay-anchor on the glacier to protect the wide step across the moat and onto the first pitch of rock.

Necessary gear:
- ice axe & crampons (aluminum was ideal) for the glacier
- one picket
- 60 meter rope
- singles of cams, BD #0.3 to #3
- nuts
- slings: probably 6 singles & 6 doubles (bring plenty of tied webbing to replace old tat at rap anchors)

We rapped the route, pretty much exactly the way we came up. From where we turned around, a total of 10 rappels (all 30m or shorter) got us back to the glacier. We replaced a hell of a lot aging rap anchors, so if you go this summer (2017,) anchors should be in good condition. Otherwise, bring a lot of webbing or cord to leave behind.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Chimney Rock catching the morning light (2017-07-09). Photo by Rob Busack.
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Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Rob Busack
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

Other Photos

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Chimney Rock - East Face Direct (2017-07-09). Photo by Rob Busack.
Click here for larger-size photo.

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