Ascent of Chimney Rock on 2017-07-09| Others in Party: | Ben Stilin
Nick Anthony
| | Date: | Sunday, July 9, 2017 | | Ascent Type: | Unsuccessful - Turned Back | | Peak: | Chimney Rock | | Location: | USA-Washington | | Elevation: | 7550 ft / 2301 m |
Ascent Trip ReportAttempt on the East Face Direct. Turned around two pitches shy of the summit do to lack of time.
3 days strongly recommended
It never felt like more than 5.5, however pro was sometimes scarce and some easy pitches were quite runout. Also, due to lack of traffic, dirt and lichen are present even when you're on route, making it a little more challenging. Rock shoes were not strictly necessary, but I think they allowed us to move quicker/more-confidently, especially given the runouts. We used one picket (dead-man) as a belay-anchor on the glacier to protect the wide step across the moat and onto the first pitch of rock.
Necessary gear:
- ice axe & crampons (aluminum was ideal) for the glacier
- one picket
- 60 meter rope
- singles of cams, BD #0.3 to #3
- nuts
- slings: probably 6 singles & 6 doubles (bring plenty of tied webbing to replace old tat at rap anchors)
Rappels:
We rapped the route, pretty much exactly the way we came up. From where we turned around, a total of 10 rappels (all 30m or shorter) got us back to the glacier. We replaced a hell of a lot aging rap anchors, so if you go this summer (2017,) anchors should be in good condition. Otherwise, bring a lot of webbing or cord to leave behind.
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Chimney Rock catching the morning light (2017-07-09). Photo by Rob Busack.
Click here for larger-size photo. | | Summary Total Data | | Route Conditions: | Maintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb | | Gear Used: | Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp | GPS Data for Ascent/Trip
 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Rob Busack
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