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Ascent of Mount Logan on 2017-07-09

Climber: Susan Shih

Others in Party:Mark E
Jerry S
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, July 9, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Logan
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9087 ft / 2769 m

Ascent Trip Report

Second attempt with Mark, Bill, Jan and Jerry. Lots of snow has melted since I first tried 2 weeks ago. Followed trail all the way to where we started heading up off the trail. Used Sean Albert's GPS track till then. Then we used a track from when we came down last time. Worked well till almost to the ridge when we couldn't find the exact notch through the cliffs to reach the ridge. Finally Mark found a way, but by then we had wasted a good hour or more. The ridge was so much more brushy with the snow gone. We made our way down to the lake and headed towards a big rock near an inlet to the lake. Same place where we put our crampons on the first time, but it was totally covered in snow then. Only a few patches left. Found it difficult to cross the stream, but finally were able to by placing many logs and few rocks. Mark and I crossed in crocs. So glad to get those heavy overnight packs off.

Bill decided to remain at camp. Left camp at 6:15am. Headed towards X-mas Tree col, but took the col on climber's left because we knew it would be a little easier than X-mas Tree Col. At the col about 8:45am. Took a long break and started down the nasty 500' gully. This is the part I disliked the most. Took another break at the bottom before starting up towards the glacier. We stopped to put on crampons after getting off rock/scree and roped up. Not sure where the time was going, but made the col at 3pm. Jan decided to wait for us at the col. Summitted and got back to the col at 4:20pm. Not back to camp till 10:20pm. Once it started getting dark, I had to really slow down since my night vision is pretty bad.

I would never have been able to make it without camping higher since I am not very fast.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Banded Glacier
Descent Statistics



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