Ascent of Hilgard Peak on 2017-07-07

Climber: Alex Lennon

Others in Party:Duncan Lennon
Date:Friday, July 7, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Hilgard Peak
    Elevation:11316 ft / 3449 m

Ascent Trip Report

A wonderful day out in the Madison Range with Duncan. This is one of the finer peaks either of us had climbed in quite a while, in terms of good quality scrambling, excellent scenery, and relative difficulty. That is to say, this peak deserves a healthy amount of respect for its exposure, but we found many of the scary descriptions found on summitpost and in Select Peaks to be misleading. From the east col, we scrambled on solid rock to the right of a loose gully on climber's left of the ridge. We then climbed easy ledges on this face before heading left to traverse back into this chimney near its top. This was really the only move with serious exposure. From there, we headed back right up more ledges and a low-angle dihedral just below the summit. From there an easy scramble gained the precipitous summit block. Unless one were quite a bit off route, the 5.2 hand traverse near the top is extremely obvious to bypass. There's really no reason to have to make that move at all, it would seem. Overall, Hilgard now ranks as one of my very favorite climbs of the year so far, and Duncan and I were both proud to stand on this summit, one we'd each been thinking about for a long time now.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5600 ft / 1706 m
    Total Elevation Loss:1300 ft / 396 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5600 ft / 1706 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 4300 ft / 1311 m; Extra: 1300 ft / 396m
    Loss on way in:1300 ft / 396 m
    Start Trailhead:7016 ft / 2138 m
Descent Statistics

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