Ascent of U S Grant Peak on 2017-07-04

Climber: Ryan Rex

Date:Tuesday, July 4, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:U S Grant Peak
    Elevation:13767 ft / 4196 m

Ascent Trip Report

After getting stuck in some scary low cl5 choss fests on vermillion the day before, I was very apprehensive about jumping on Ulysses s grant peak- especially after reading on summit post about the "cl4 +" crux moves. But I decided to head up it anyway, because the weather was looking too good to waste, and I could always tag v2 as a consolation.
Well, I'm very glad I did. Us grant was a very enjoyable climb all the way up, with outstanding views. Not a whiff of class 4 on the entire route. And all the cl 3 moves are very straightforward and on decent solid rock (except for the first little crux, that one was kind of loose).
From the saddle, you pretty much just follow your nose up he ridge. The first Crux will come when you have to get up a shelf/step. There are multiple ways to do it, all will involve some sort of class 3, but with no exposure. Next crux will come at the first main col you have to cross. This is the toughest one. There was snow when I did it, so that added a degree of difficulty. When melted out, I'd imagine it's probly even easier. Just cross the gully and climb up and left. The rock was loose, so test all the holds.
Next crux looks just like the last gully, but it's actually super easy. Instead of a climb, there is a dirt gully that leads out of the gully. Climb it, and there's just one more small gully after that to cross, and you're at the summit. And the views are awesome! I could yell to Maddie down at the lake and hear her when she yelled back. Took me about 2 hours to get up, maybe 2.5. Only about 1 hour going down. I stopped to tag v2, which added time tho
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2267 ft / 690 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2267 ft / 690 m
    Distance:6 mi / 9.7 km
    Start Trailhead:11500 ft / 3505 m
Descent Statistics

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