Ascent of Two Move Rock on 2017-05-12

Climber: William Musser

Others in Party:D. Zinchenko
Date:Friday, May 12, 2017
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Two Move Rock
    Elevation:6800 ft / 2072 m

Ascent Trip Report

We saw this slab between us and Hammerhead. Hammerhead is supposed to be a 5.0 which would have been perfect with my hiking boots but this slab looked relatively easy and had a lot of grippy places so Dmitry set up for protection (for me) since I am not much of rock climber and headed up. Sure enough the beginning was the hardest area. My hiking boots were not smearing the non pitted area near the beginning and I finally swung around to the more exposed ridge around the side and I finally found a place where my size 12 full ankle hiking boot could hold and from there it was pretty straight forward heading up to where Dmitry kindly set the old man some protection. We were passed the crux move that the climbers have debated whether is a 5.2 or 5.4 (it is at least a 5.3) It would be easy with any type of climbing shoes with sticky soles but try it will a rigid full sized hiking boot and you can tell it is no 5.2; but on the next pitch we noted that the sun was setting and it was falling dark soon. I realized then that I not eaten all day (later I calculated it as only 400 calories) and I burned over 3000 calories already that day according to my fitbit so my arms and legs were growing wobbly fast. Not a good idea for a very poor rock climber to be doing that on low calorie intake and darkness almost on us. Dmitry smartly suggested we rap off instead of completing the second pitch and I agreed since my body was clearly a bit shaky and it was about dark. Thus, I can not claim the summit of the route but I was most appreciative of him bringing the gear and letting me "dabble" on some lower class 5 slabs with protection. Next time I need to be sure I eat and wear some footwear intended for smear climbing.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:100 ft / 30 m
    Grade/Class:5.1 to 5.4
    Quality:4 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:100 ft / 30 m
    Route:rock climb
    Start Trailhead:bottom of slab  6700 ft / 2042 m
Descent Statistics
Ascent Part of Trip: Denver-6

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Hyland Hill2017-05-09 a70 ft / 21 m
2West Morgan Hill2017-05-09 b160 ft / 49 m
3Castle Rock2017-05-09 c669 ft / 204 m
5Green Mountain2017-05-10 e835 ft / 255 m
6Mount Bailey2017-05-10 g599 ft / 183 m
7Crow Hill2017-05-10 h230 ft / 70 m
8(Attempt) Royal Arch2017-05-12 i1655 ft / 504 m
9(Attempt) Two Move Rock2017-05-12 j100 ft / 30 m
10Centralia Mountain2017-05-21 a1440 ft / 439 m
11Mount Galbraith2017-05-21 b1090 ft / 332 m
12Mount Galbraith-East Peak2017-05-21 c240 ft / 73 m
Total Trip Gain: 7088 ft / 2160 m    Total Trip Loss: 3550 ft / 1082 m

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