Ascent of Mount Shasta on 2017-04-15

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Saturday, April 15, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Shasta
    Elevation:14162 ft / 4316 m

Ascent Trip Report

Sargent's Ridge Route: East Side Variation, AG III & Class 4. Descend Avalanche Gulch & carry over. 7,212 net & 7,712 cumulative elevation gain.

Route beta can be found here:

Party of three: Brad (co-TL), Kristen, H (co-TL). Solo summit. My 2nd summit of Shasta. Brad and Kristen turned around at different times for different reasons.

Approach: 4-14 4,150 elevation gain & 8 hours in deep powder.

Deep powder in approach to the ridge. Ice on the ridge in places. We traverse to the climbers left side of the ridge prior to our camp spot to avoid wind slabs. Watch for snow mobiles. Room for one tent with great SE wind protection nestled on the West side of Shastarama. Room for an army to camp below on Mud Glacier. 8 hours on approach to Shastarama 11,100 with conditions.

Climb: 4-15 3,062 net elevation gain, 3,562 cumulative. 10 hours. With carry over gear.

Beautiful sunrise. Deep winter snow packs combined with warm spring temps and fresh snow made for avi wind slab concerns on the East side of the ridge and slow going breaking trail in deep powder. We traversed left instead of right at times to avoid class 5 rock on the ridge and soft wind slabs on the right hand side. Overall not good climbing conditions. Beautiful views of the summit. The summit block was melted out. There's several class 3 sections and a few easy but exposed class 4 moves.

The ridge climb took 10 hours from Shastarama Point 11,100 to Red Banks 13,000 elevation including several hours of traversing and downclimb / re-upclimbing. 1 hour 45 minutes from Red Banks to true summit. That's 12 hours up. The route I took was to stay on the East Side of the ridge once I encountered Green Butte. Most parties will stay on the West Side and a few take the ridge proper. The West side is much easier, the West steeper and more exposed. The ridge proper is the toughest climbing conditions of the three.

(The party ahead of us climbed the rock with pro, climbed all night for a 24 up climb.)

Descent: 4 hours via Avalanche Gulch.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:8212 ft / 2502 m
    Total Elevation Loss:8212 ft / 2502 m
    Round-Trip Distance:14 mi / 22.5 km
    Grade/Class:AG II / Class 3
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Snowshoes, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:7712 ft / 2350 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7212 ft / 2198 m; Extra: 500 ft / 152m
    Loss on way in:500 ft / 152 m
    Distance:8.5 mi / 13.7 km
    Route:Sargent's Ridge: East Var. (solo summit)
    Start Trailhead:6950 ft / 2118 m
    Time:1 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:7712 ft / 2350 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 7212 ft / 2198 m; Extra: 500 ft / 152m
    Gain on way out:500 ft / 152 m
    Distance:5.5 mi / 8.9 km
    Route:Avalanche Gulch
    End Trailhead:6950 ft / 2118 m
    Time:1 Days 

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