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Ascent of Mount Hood on 2017-02-12

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Sunday, February 12, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Hood
    Location:USA-Oregon
    Elevation:11239 ft / 3425 m

Ascent Trip Report

South Side - Right Pearly Gate ascent (lI & WI 2 (60* blue ice)), Old Chute down, 45 degrees.)

Party: 3 on approach (Adrian). 2 to summit. (Sam & H TL) #10 for me. We're second to the summit after Randy (he was free soloing DKHW).

Weather:

Warm, no wind. Ice from Timberline Lodge to the summit. Blue ice and rhime.

Logistics:

Around 50 climbers on the route making me wish I'd picked a less traveled route. Half of them I vaguely knew from around but couldn't really tell who was who with all the face coverage. Luckily we passed everyone above Palmer Lift except Randy Lee (he practically ran solo up DKHW, said it was 80 degrees solid ice at the steepest and the crux was a rock section). The last group of three we passed were trying to go up a dead end to Boycouts Chute above the Hogsback. We sprinted by them.

Climbers on the mountain included three clubs Pacific Northwest Mountaineers, SACers and a formal climb from Mazamas. Mazamas hapazardly setup three ropes blocking the route; one leading up the upper Hogsback, one traversing from the Hogsback to the Left Gate and the 3rd going to the gate. I've no idea why they always protect this route with a cluster f**k of ropes. Several climbers turned back angry at the Mazamas for holding up everyone below them in the cold. I had to hold back my laughter at their sloppy "rope management."
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5239 ft / 1596 m
    Total Elevation Loss:5239 ft / 1596 m
    Round-Trip Distance:7 mi / 11.3 km
    Grade/Class:AG II / AI 2
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5239 ft / 1596 m
    Distance:3.5 mi / 5.6 km
    Route:South Side: RPG
    Start Trailhead:6000 ft / 1828 m
    Time:7 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:5239 ft / 1596 m
    Distance:3.5 mi / 5.6 km
    Route:South Side: Old Chute
    End Trailhead:6000 ft / 1828 m
    Time:4 Hours 30 Minutes



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