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Ascent of Volcán Chimborazo on 2016-12-28

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Wednesday, December 28, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Volcán Chimborazo
    Location:Ecuador
    Elevation:20561 ft / 6266 m

Ascent Trip Report

Whymper Route: PD+ / Alpine Grade II (45* snow) & Class 3, PG13. 4,611 elevation gain & 5.6 miles RT.

My last climb of the year was my highest elevation to date and my first 6,000 meter peak! We climbed the Whymper Route which was the FA route pioneered by Edward Whymper, Louis Carrel and Jean-Antoine Carrel on 1/4/1880. We started at the Carrel Refuge (the lower of two huts). This route is rarely climbed anymore due to rockfall. Luckily for us the rock was nice and frozen until around 10 am due to recent snows and cold temps. This approach is shorter than the standard route, the Normal route via the Castillo, and they meet up high on the mountain. We reach first the Cumbre Veintimilla then the true summit of Cumbre Whymper at an elevation of 20,561 feet.

I highly recommend this climb for someone just getting into high elevation climbing.

Rope team of 3 (Zane Stryker Coleman & Fredy Tipan TL). 5:20 to Whymper summit from Carrel Regugio (12:30 am alpine start. Arrived at Veintimilla summit 6 am & Whymper summit 6:20 - fog.

The highest of Chimborazo's 5 peaks, Whymper, is the farthest point on the Earth's surface from the center of the Earth due to the equatorial bulge.

Significant rockfall danger. Mininal crevvace hazards. This is a well travel mountain, however the summit rate is low (30?-50? estimated) due to the elevation and fitness level required.

Approach: drive to Carrel Refugio 15,950 elevation.

Trekking poles suggested for the approach. Tree line 12k, snow line 16k.


Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4611 ft / 1405 m
    Grade/Class:PD+ / AG II (45*)
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4611 ft / 1405 m
    Distance:2.8 mi / 4.5 km
    Route:Whymper Route
    Start Trailhead:15950 ft / 4861 m
Descent Statistics
    Route:Whymper Route
Ascent Part of Trip: Ecuador Dec. '16 (17 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDateGain
1Volcán Pichincha-Rucu2016-12-123351 ft / 1021 m
2(Attempt) Pasochoa2016-12-134200 ft / 1280 m
3El Corazon2016-12-163396 ft / 1035 m
4(Attempt) Volcán Cotopaxi2016-12-19 
5Volcán Iliniza2016-12-214403 ft / 1342 m
6Volcán Cayambe2016-12-233746 ft / 1142 m
7Volcán Antisana2016-12-263828 ft / 1167 m
8Volcán Chimborazo2016-12-284611 ft / 1405 m
Total Trip Gain: 27535 ft / 8392 m



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