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Ascent of Volcán Cayambe on 2016-12-23

Climber: Harvest Mondello

Date:Friday, December 23, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Volcán Cayambe
    Location:Ecuador
    Elevation:18996 ft / 5789 m

Ascent Trip Report

Normal Route via Hermoso Glacier: PD / Alpine Grade II (35 degrees). 3,746 elevation gain on climb. 7 miles RT. 4:23 hours up.

1st summit party (of 60 people). Rope party of 3 (Zane Stryker Coleman & Fredy Tipan TL). 1 am alpine start - arrived at summit just before dawn (5:23). Stayed at the hut 15,250 feet elevation.

This is the highest mountain on the Equator. Lower portions are andesite rock. The Hermoso Glacier has preceding 3,000 feet / 1,000 meters in the last 20 years!

Lightning storm and volcano smoking in the jungle wow! Views of everything we have and will climb! Particulary good views of Antisana & Cotopaxi. We got lucky with the weather. This mountain is know for bad weather due to it's proximity to the Amazon rain forest.

4x4 needed to access Cayambe - Coca Ecological Preserve (996,000 acres). 1 1/2 hrs on very rough road from Cayambe town.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3746 ft / 1141 m
    Grade/Class:PD / AG II (35*)
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3746 ft / 1141 m
    Distance:3.5 mi / 5.6 km
    Route:Hermoso Glacier
    Start Trailhead:15250 ft / 4648 m
Descent Statistics
    Route:Hermoso Glacier



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