Ascent of Pigeon Peak on 1988-08-11

Climber: David Olson

Others in Party:Lee Fryberger
Date:Thursday, August 11, 1988
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Train
Peak:Pigeon Peak
    Elevation:13972 ft / 4258 m

Ascent Trip Report

Aug 10 1988 Wednesday. We took the train to Needleton and the trail to the meadow above Ruby Lake. The trail is easy to lose and some of it should be lost and rerouted. We were pooped. An unusual San Juan day. It started raining at 5:00 pm. A 5:30 hour trip up.
Aug 11 1988 Thursday. Another early start. I dragged behind Lee a good ways. Lee's plan was to follow Garret and Martin's route, for 4900 ft. of elevation gain. I wanted to avoid that much gain and went looking for the original ascent route. I went up the wrong couloir and engaged in difficult 5th class climbing. I eventually went around the ridge/corner to the left and found a better couloir over there. That was steep ledges on the left side of the couloir, not far harder than Crestone Needle. That got me up to the top of the couloir. I crossed to the north side and took broad ledges around the west summit and up to the top of Pigeon Pk., 13972 ft. I scared five mountain goats from the top. I saw them at a distance of 50-60 ft. I got up on top at
10:00 am. Lee got up there at 10:30 am. We came down the OA (FA) route. He called it a pistol. I neglected to get any photos. After that Turret Pk. was easy. We got down, packed up and hiked down to the upper meadow, a 3&1/2 trip. We did better on the trail. It needs some marking too.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2372 ft / 722 m
    Total Elevation Loss:5672 ft / 1728 m
    Grade/Class:class 3-4
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Weather:Rain the evening before
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2372 ft / 722 m
    Route:Attempt to find the first ascent route
    Start Trailhead:Camp above Ruby Lake  11600 ft / 3535 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:5672 ft / 1728 m
    Route:Down the first ascent route, break camp.
    End Trailhead:The 'upper meadow'  8300 ft / 2529 m

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