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Ascent of Mount Whitney on 2016-09-15

Climber: JT Newgard

Date:Thursday, September 15, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Whitney
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:14498 ft / 4418 m

Ascent Trip Report

Erik and I climbed the East Buttress as a day hike from the Portal. This climb is very scramble-y with lots of huge ledges for comfy belays. The P3 belay above the second tower was probably the most memorable position on the route with lots of sun and air and all the great peaks on either side.

We took the ledge variation (down and around) to get going on P3 which involved delicately placing your foot on a little pedestal with at least a couple hundred feet of air below! This is a nice variation if you want to avoid the poorly-protected face climbing off the belay. The 5.7 fingers bit above the PeeWee was sweet. These moves left me wishing it lasted a little longer.

After about 6-7 pitches we were able to unrope and scramble to the summit. Might be some fifth class up here, but it is very blocky and easy to pick your way to the top. I got a two-for-one deal as I checked out the mountaineer's route for the first time on the descent. It turned out to be your standard Sierra crud chute, but it's a John Muir first ascent! Historic!
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