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Ascent of Mount Gayley on 2016-09-11

Climber: Patrick ONeill

Others in Party:Tom Becht -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Date:Sunday, September 11, 2016
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Mount Gayley
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:12850 ft / 3916 m

Ascent Trip Report

We had planned to approach from the north via Glacier Pass, however on the ascent we turned into a chute that lead to the saddle low point between Sill and Gayley. This was not the chute to Glacier Pass. It started out manageable but was quite loose and sandy class 3, more than a few 40lbs holds came away from the rock, approaching the saddle low point it quickly became rather undesirable. I started to have concerns about what was above and out of sight, after passing a few more rough spots, I decided that I didn't like the prospects of down climbing that mess should the route not go and informed Tom I would be retreating to seek the regular route to Glacier Pass. At this point however Tom was up in a rather unpleasant chute which he described as more scary than Devils Crag, he had requested that I wait for him but due to the distance it wasn't clear that he meant for me to wait at Glacier Pass. So I remained on the rock while Tom sent down a fine collection of debris. Eventually the debris ceased and Tom didn't respond to my shouts, so I descended and followed the rock on the margins of Palisade Glacier. About 100' from Glacier Pass the hail started, accompanied by some thunder, so I aborted the summit bid. About 20 minutes later Tom appeared behind me, having summited and descended via Glacier Pass. The remainder of the descent was uneventful. Excellent views of Sill and North Pal as well as the Palisade Glacier. All in all a good workout and interesting day in the backcountry despite the lack of a summit.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5810 ft / 1770 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5810 ft / 1770 m
    Distance:16.4 mi / 26.4 km
    Start Trailhead:7040 ft / 2145 m
Descent Statistics



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