Ascent to Steamboat Prow-Camp Schurman on 2016-09-09

Climber: Owen Gabrielson

Date:Friday, September 9, 2016
Ascent Type:No Summit Goal
Point Reached:Steamboat Prow - Camp Schurman
    Elevation:9400 ft / 2865 m

Ascent Trip Report

Trip to Camp Schurman. Ascended to Camp Curtis, dropped to Emmons. Had never done this before so was wary re specific entry point onto Emmons. We saw an obvious ramp down to the glacier but it gained the glacier below significant crevasse breakup. I thought there had to be another ramp further up, avoiding the most significant crevasses. We opted for what we could see and it was the right choice as further up the ridge seemed to have dicier options for getting onto the glacier. We were able to navigate through the crevasses and up... Not without great care. And there wasn't any boot pack... We found our way up and lunched at Camp Schurman as climb Rangers were cleaning out the shelter and preparing to leave it unstaffed as climb season is over...

We scrambled up the prow, about a pitch of fourth class scrambling straight up the ridge (thanks to Climb Rangers for giving us the best directions (my thought was to go left, and ascend a rocky gulley, while they advised to stay on the ridge proper, more exposed, but safer because of less rockfall hazard).

We walked down the ridge to Camp Curtis gained the inter glacier and descended.

I found the interglacier to be in surprisingly good shape. Few breakups, very little ice. Wore crampons on way up and way down. It didn't soften too much, despite being a warm day.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
    Weather:Pleasant, Clear

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