Ascent of Prusik Peak on 2016-09-07

Climber: Sandeep Kumar

Date:Wednesday, September 7, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Prusik Peak
    Elevation:8000 ft / 2438 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started from snow lake trailhead camped at the far end of snow lake (took us about 7 hours). On next day, we started at 7am and hiked up to the base of west ridge route. We took right From Lake Vivian (north-eastern side of vivian), which is a more direct approach to the base (as compared to the normal hiking trail which goes to left and around lake vivian (south western side), and then gains the Prussik pass). Started climbing around 11 am. We did it in 5 pitches instead of the standard 4. The last pitch was split into two because we had too much rope drag. We chose the lieback flake variation on the right instead of the straight-up off-width climb, which caused the drag. Our 5th pitch was basically 15 feet up the chimney to the summit. We rappelled down the north side, using 5 rappels with 60 meters rope. 60 metre length is NOT sufficient to link all the stations. Some 5-6 feet of down-climbing was involved at at-least two stations (don't exactly remember which ones). 5th rappel takes you almost to the trail (requires 10 feet of down-climbing). Followed the trail back to base of climb. Hiked down with the easier approach that goes around lake south western side of Vivian. Hiked down to snow lake and then back to parking lot at 1.30am. It was a long day.
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Prusik Peak (2016-09-07). Photo by Sandeep Kumar.
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Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6700 ft / 2042 m
    Trailhead:1520  1300 ft / 396 m
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Tent Camp
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Partly Cloudy

Other Photos

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Me on summit of Prusik Peak (2016-09-07). Photo by Sandeep Kumar.
Click here for larger-size photo.

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