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Ascent of Tomyhoi Peak on 2016-08-27

Climber: Connor McEntee

Other People:Solo Ascent
Date:Saturday, August 27, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Tomyhoi Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7435 ft / 2266 m

Ascent Trip Report

It was a great climb for a worthwhile peak. I unfortunately was racing the weather and the cloud were coming in, so I didn't get quite the panoramic views you would get on a clear day.

I found the peak to be easier than what some other trip reports had indicated. There is an excellent use trail that's hard to lose pretty much the entire way to the false summit. At the edge of the glacier, the trail does continue on up to the ridge. As others have said, the summit is not accessible from the ridge at that point due to several gendarmes. I climbed a bit just to check them out, and they require some seriously exposed down climbing that I wouldn't consider without a rope. I dropped down to the glacier debated hoping in the moat and continuing that way. However, since I brought crampons and an ice axes, figured I might as well use them. It was overcast and cold, and the glacier was quite solid underneath (could not drive my ice axe in more than an inch) covered by maybe an inch of softer snow. On a warm day after the glacier has been sitting in direct sunlight for the morning, it may soften up enough that you can easily kick steps with your boots. The glacier has a nice mellow runout, but I would not have crossed without crampons with the conditions I encountered. Other parties behind me ended up turning around at the glacier, because they were unprepared to cross it. After the glacier, it's a quick scramble to the false summit. To get to the summit, there is a short down climb to a saddle and an exposed scramble up. The rock is solid and the path is pretty obvious.

On the way down, I climbed Yellow Aster Butte. Since I was heading for the trail junction near Gold Pan Pass, I didn't want to go back the way I had come. I decided that I would head over to the east peak and then drop down to the pass. I would not recommend this, and no one should follow my track. To the east of YAB the terrain falls away quickly and there are a number of cliffs. I found a game trail that traversed through the cliffs, which was fine (though a fall would have been bad). I then down climbed a 15ft cliff. It was loose and foothold were unreliable. I made it down to the moderate slopes below, but took a silly fall and cut my finger open on a rock. From there I climbed the east peak, and roamed around on the south side looking for reasonable slopes leading to the trail below as I didn't want to have to use my bloodied hand for climbing. Upon reaching the trail, it was just a short hike out to the TH.

Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5586 ft / 1702 m
    Total Elevation Loss:5586 ft / 1702 m
    Round-Trip Distance:12.8 mi / 20.6 km
    Grade/Class:YDS 3/4
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles
    Weather:Cool, Breezy, Low Clouds
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4420 ft / 1347 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 3884 ft / 1184 m; Extra: 536 ft / 163m
    Loss on way in:536 ft / 163 m
    Distance:6.4 mi / 10.3 km
    Route:SE Ridge
    Start Trailhead:Yellow Aster Butte TH  3551 ft / 1082 m
    Time:2 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:5050 ft / 1539 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 3884 ft / 1184 m; Extra: 1166 ft / 355m
    Gain on way out:1166 ft / 355 m
    Distance:6.4 mi / 10.3 km
    Route:SE Ridge
    End Trailhead:Yellow Aster Butte TH  3551 ft / 1082 m
    Time:3 Hours 24 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Connor McEntee
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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