Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2016-08-13

Climber: Connor McEntee

Other People:Solo Ascent
Date:Saturday, August 13, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

I climbed Glacier as part of a multi day trip out of the N. Fork of the Sauk River TH. Got a late start due to work and didn't leave the trailhead until after 5, which put me at White Pass just a little before sunset. The first few miles are fairly humid and warm, so I guess that worked out as it was cooling down in the evening. After Mackinaw Shelter there are only a few water sources before joining the PCT, but there is plenty of water up in the pass. Anyway, I found a nice camp spot off the west side of the saddle, and called it a night.

The next morning, I left around 8 am for the summit from camp. There is a bomber trail traversing from White Pass over toward the White Chuck Glacier basin, which I'm glad I took all the way. Navigation through the White Chuck Glacier moraine is a little tedious, lots of ups and downs and I wasn't quite sure where I was exiting. It's worth noting the glacier is a shell of its former self and is still retreating rapidly. Needless to say there is tons of water.

My original plan was to go up Disappointment Peak, but I met someone who had solo'ed it the day before and said he regretted it. He came down the Cool Glacier and much preferred that route and recommended that I go that way. By the time I got to the base of Disappointment Peak, I could see there was a considerable amount of rockfall and the scramble up looked fairly loose. I opted for the glacier.

I know people solo Glacier fairly regularly or go unroped, take dogs up etc. While I don't think it was terribly dangerous, the risk is understated. There are substantial crevasses in the Cool glacier. I didn't get close to really peer into them, but they could easily be 50 ft deep. The boot path does take snow bridges over these.

From the top of the glacier, the ascent to the summit is easy. Great views of Baker and Shuksan.

Ascent time is total moving time, split over two days. My GPS track was only for the ascent of Glacier from camp due to limited battery life. I carried an ice axe, but never pulled it out. The snow was plenty soft and I was never on any slope steep enough for me to be concerned about stopping myself with trekking poles. I did wear crampons, but did not need them either. My boots were falling apart, and the crampons were helping hold the soles together.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:10254 ft / 3125 m
    Extra Gain:903 ft / 275 m
    Round-Trip Distance:33.4 mi / 53.8 km
    Route:Disappointment Cleaver / Cool Glacier
    Trailhead:2072 ft / 631 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Time:8 Hours 11 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Connor McEntee
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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