Ascent of Mount Stuart on 2016-08-06

Climber: Connor McEntee

Date:Saturday, August 6, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Stuart
    Elevation:9415 ft / 2869 m

Ascent Trip Report

Spectacular climb. I came over Longs Pass, camped near Ingalls Creek at the base of the Cascadian Couloir, and summited the following day.

Conditions were good, only one large patch of snow left in the upper reaches of the couloir as you gain the false summit. The snow was quite solid in the morning requiring crampons and an ice axe. There is no runout i.e. rocks, but it was easy to self arrest on. It is possible to avoid the snow, but it puts you on class 3 rock with some class 4 moves. Since I brought an ice axe and crampons, I ascended the snow and descended the rocks. Other parties who did not bring ice axes or crampons attempted to ascend to the false summit but had turned around by the time I came back down.

A word of caution. There is non-trivial rockfalls danger on the snowfield. Rocks falling from higher up out of view on slopes going up to the false summit get funneled down onto the snowfield. I believe at this time of year it is largely caused by other climbers higher up, who can't be seen. One football sized rock nailed someone on the snowfield and likely broke his leg. He was later airlifted off.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Cascadian Couloir
    Time:5 Hours 7 Minutes
Descent Statistics

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