Ascent of Cutthroat Peak on 2016-07-30

Climber: Diana Yuen

Date:Saturday, July 30, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Cutthroat Peak
    Elevation:8050 ft / 2453 m

Ascent Trip Report

Take the best creek crossing. The first one was the easiest, but all of them connect to the trail.

Very muddy trail at low elevations -- lose your shoe kind of mud.

Take established boot path to the flat landing at base of mountain (6500'?) through pleasant alpine meadow. Lots of wildflowers in bloom. Path is variable dirt and rock.

Take the best route up the slope to the base of the route. Depending on route, could be sluffing sand, hardpack dirt/sand, loose rocks/scree, or stable-loose talus. Follow the rock rib as far up as you can as it seems to have the best footing. All the gullies are equally terrible.

"P1" - scramble 3-4th class gully full of kitty litter to nice bolts. Belay here.
P2 - Upward traverse to ridge. Stop when rope drag is unbearable or you run out of rope. Gear anchor. Pass a large cairn in the trail that marks the rap bolts.
"P3" - Scramble an airy exposed ridge. Very thrilling.
P4 - Gear anchor at base of vertical wall. Watch for very large unstable looking boulder. First move off the ground is a bit awkward for hands and feet. Traverse around a corner to 5.7 chimney. Hard to split pitch due to lack of anchor spots. Chimney is tight with dual cracks inset deep inside. Top out to big ledge with large #1 crack to summit and corner.
P5 - Scramble around corner to blocky 4th class to "5.4" moves up to summit. Moves are more like 5.6.

Descent - Supertopo rap anchors are as stated. Two raps to exposed ridge, scramble ridge, two raps to gully with some downclimbing.
Summary Total Data
    Route:West Ridge
    Trailhead:TH  -9999 ft / -3047 m
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
    Weather:Pleasant, Breezy, Clear
Sunny and warm, with winds

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