Ascent of Mount Stuart on 2016-08-01

Climber: Jason Curtis

Others in Party:Jaime McCandless
Date:Monday, August 1, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Stuart
    Elevation:9415 ft / 2869 m

Ascent Trip Report

We did Stuart's North Ridge via Ingalls Pass -> Lake Ingalls -> Goat Pass -> N Ridge -> Summit -> Cascadian Couloir -> Longs Pass.

Time-relevant beta first:
The trailhead is open! You no longer have to hike the extra mile from the road closure.
- The Cascadian Couloir has a section of ~20m of unavoidable steep snow near the top. If you're not prepared for steep snow you'll have to turn around. All other trails we used were snow-free except the section between Goat Pass and the foot of Stuart's North Ridge.
- Bugs in the morning at Ingalls Lake were awful - I got 3 bites in 10 minutes while filling up water and wearing DEET.

What it was _really_ like:
- AWESOME - Beautiful granite climbing in copious amounts.
- and awful
This was the longest, most committing route we've been on so far. Though the macro beta (follow the ridge!) was simple, we had much angst about the micro (is this loose, lichen-encrusted crack on-route? hint: if you find yourself asking this, the answer is, nope. there's probably a less lichen-y and less chossy crack somewhere nearby.). So suffice it to say that the route was challenging mentally and physically!
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:YDS 5.9
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Complete N Ridge Via Ingalls Lake/Goat Pass
Descent Statistics
    Route:Cascadian + Longs Pass

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