Ascent of Peak 11094 on 2016-07-22

Climber: Alex Lennon

Date:Friday, July 22, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Peak 11094
    Elevation:11094 ft / 3381 m

Ascent Trip Report

While hiking the Teton Crest Trail with my dad and his brothers, I woke up at 5am one morning to climb another of the Teton 11,000 footers. Though this peak yields an excellent summit view- especially the sunrise I saw- and has a spectacular approach through Alaska Basin, I cannot in good conscience recommend the climb to anyone, except perhaps in spring snow conditions. The west ridge, as described by Ortenburger and Jackson, is guarded on the north by cliff bands. It would seem a simple matter, then, to negotiate the ridge from the south side to gain the easy sedimentary summit area. But the south side of the ridge, it turns out, is also guarded by cliff bands, forcing the climber to ascend one of several steep, rotten couloirs to gain the top of the near-continuous cliff bands that ring the mountain on nearly all aspects. While in the couloir of choice, I slid back one step for every two I took. Thankfully I was the only person on the mountain that day, and possibly all year, as I quickly lost count of how many rocks I sent down behind me despite taking great care to avoid just that. A rock the size of a dinner plate and several times thicker disintegrated under my foot. Vital handholds near the top of the couloir were guarded by sharp thistles. Finally, though, I was able to reach the gentle, easy slopes which led to the summit. The view, as mentioned before, was top notch. The descent, however, proved longer than the ascent; a brief search for a better descent couloir was a failure. I did a sort of controlled slide down to the talus slopes below the cliff band, hiked back to camp and had a much better time hiking over Hurricane Pass and Avalanche Divide.

Peak 11,094 is one I can only recommend to those completing the Teton 11,000 foot peaks, as the quality of the rock and the routefinding options are perhaps the worst in the Teton Range, certainly at least from my experience. 11,094 is one of the few peaks in the range that is best enjoyed from the valley floor.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Sunrise from Peak 11,094. Buck Mountain is prominent on the right, and the core Teton Peaks loom large further north (2016-07-22). Photo by Alex Lennon.
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Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1694 ft / 516 m
    Grade/Class:Class "2"
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1694 ft / 516 m
    Route:West Ridge
    Start Trailhead:9400 ft / 2865 m
Descent Statistics

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