Ascent of Mount Nirvana on 2016-06-21

Climber: Eric Gilbertson

Date:Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Nirvana
    Location:Canada-Northwest Territories
    Elevation:9098 ft / 2773 m

Ascent Trip Report

Made it up East Face with Len Vanderstar, with help hauling gear from friends Ron and Luke. First ascent without air support! I took a greyhound up from Seattle to Smithers, BC, then we carpooled to Tungsten. We paddled down the Flat river for a few days, then bushwhacked and hiked a few more days to the East Face. We had to bail on our first attempt after we got hit by avalanches on the upper snow slopes, but made it to the summit on our second attempt the next day. 51 hours on the mountain, including a 30-minute nap on the summit ridge, and some waiting around for the snow slopes to stabilize.

Ron and Luke hiked back to the boats and paddled out. Len and I climbed a snow gully to the north cirque, then hiked back out to Tungsten over the next week. We got a first ascent of Peak 46 on the way out.

Link to Trip Report
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The east face of Nirvana, seen from just above base camp during the successful 2016 overland expedition (June 2016). (2016-06-23). Photo by Eric Gilbertson.
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