Ascent of Kangaroo Temple on 2016-06-05

Climber: Diana Yuen

Date:Sunday, June 5, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Kangaroo Temple
    Elevation:7572 ft / 2307 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left TH at 6 am, returned 9:30 pm.
Issues: constant postholing over creeks, slow/inexperienced party member on approach, slow/inexperienced leaders on route, routefinding challenges on approach and route, immense rope drag on P1, difficulty getting to rap station #1

What a fantastic climb! Highly recommend. Very alpine-y feeling. Interesting rock route, with thrilling airy move around a corner. Scramble to notch is a bit loose.

P1: Next time would head directly up from the bottom, rather than take the furrow as beta recommends. Created U-shaped rope drag, which was horrible. Used 2 doubles, 6 draws, #1, and a nut. Lots of trees to sling. Would have liked more slings. Pass Fred Beckey's piton to ensure you're on route. Climb broken rock over three ledges to large ledge with bolted rappel anchors and a tree.

P2: Consider splitting part of P1 and adding it to P2 as it is ridiculously short. Cross ledge in front of large boulder - protect trees on either end. Can place #2 in crack along wall. End at a shoulder-height boulder before an airy, blind corner. Gear anchor between the boulder - front, top, or back. Back has a perfect #.75 pocket. Used a nut, #.4, #.5 to build anchor in front crack.

P3: Turn the corner to exciting views. Cross ledge. #2 or #3 halfway across in a pocket. Can sling stubby tree at end. Step-down move will give folks trouble. Large crack with small crack on either side. Left crack takes nuts, right crack flares a bit and offset nut would work best. Look above to large belay tree with rap slings and lots of shrubby trees. Can climb the flared crack or whatever method works.

P4: Optional huge crack above slab leads to rap anchors.

Rap anchors are hidden - look for random pile of rocks near lower summit. Three bolts. Three single rope raps (60m) to start. First rap is clean and vertical to bolts at top of P1. Second rap veer to climber's left to slung rock rap. Third rap off large block to bottom.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3403 ft / 1037 m
    Total Elevation Loss:3360 ft / 1024 m
    Round-Trip Distance:5.6 mi / 8.9 km
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope
    Weather:Pleasant, Breezy, Clear
Blue sunny skies with wind on summit
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3117 ft / 950 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 2654 ft / 808 m; Extra: 463 ft / 141m
    Loss on way in:463 ft / 141 m
    Distance:2.9 mi / 4.6 km
    Route:North Face
    Start Trailhead:TH  4918 ft / 1499 m
    Time:6 Hours 35 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2897 ft / 883 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 2611 ft / 795 m; Extra: 286 ft / 87m
    Gain on way out:286 ft / 87 m
    Distance:2.7 mi / 4.3 km
    Route:North Face
    End Trailhead:TH  4961 ft / 1512 m
    Time:5 Hours 15 Minutes

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