Ascent of Breithorn on 1952-08-28

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Guide Gottfried Perren
Date:Thursday, August 28, 1952
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Train
    Elevation:13661 ft / 4163 m

Ascent Trip Report

Yesterday my wife Marilyn and I with guide Gottfried Perren rode the Gornergratbahn from Zermatt to the Rotenboden station, dropped down to the Gornergletscher, crossed it (wary of occasional crevasses), and ascended the other side to the scenically located Gandegg Hut with its great views of the Breithorn and other giants of the Pennine Alps. With a 4:30AM start Gottfried and I climbed the standard route up the Breithorn, likely the easiest and most frequently climbed of the 4000-m peaks. It took us over the Untertheodulgletscher to the Breithornpass, from where the summit is climbed via the steepening SW slope over broad snow/ice to the final S-SW ridge. Although the day started with some overcast and limited visibility, the sun broke out soon after we reached the top at 8:00AM. We returned to the Gandegg Hut by an extended loop that took us up the Klein Matterhorn, across the Plateau Rosa to Testia Grigia, and back to the hut at 12:30PM. I rejoined Marilyn there; after lunch we walked the short distance to the Trockener Steg lift, which whisked us back to Zermatt in no time at all.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3723 ft / 1134 m
    Route:SW Ridge from Breithornpass
    Trailhead:Gandegg Hut  9938 ft / 3029 m
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Initial limited visibility led to a clear, sunny day
Ascent Statistics
    Time:3 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time:4 Hours 

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