Ascent of Rimpfischhorn on 1949-08-26

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Murray Brush
Guides Josef and Fred Biner
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Friday, August 26, 1949
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Elevation:13776 ft / 4198 m

Ascent Trip Report

Our plan was to climb the Rimpfischhorn today and tomorrow undertake the challenging, classic Täschhorn-Dom traverse. Yesterday afternoon with guides Josef and Fred Biner, Murray Brush and I took the Sesselbahn to the Blauherd station (2590m) from Zermatt, then walked about an hour via the Stellisee (2537m) to Fluhalp (2616m). We had dinner and spent a comfortable night at the Berggasthaus Flue. This morning we left at 3:50AM to climb the Rimpfischhorn via the East Ridge route: from Flue to the Pfulwe saddle (3155m), between the Spitzi Flue and Pfulwe–from north of Pfulwe a traverse over the crevassed NE face to the Langfluejoch (3270m) and to the Rimpfischsattel (3985m)–from here via an icy snow slope followed by a 5.3 slab to a notch on the West Ridge of the fore-summit--descent to a notch, then via the exposed ridge to the rugged summit (5.2). We were on top at 8:50AM. The weather had deteriorated ,and it was snowing lightly. Given the state of the weather and its likely poor prospects for tomorrow, we decided to scrub tomorrow’s ambitious plan for the Täschhorn-Dom traverse from the Taesch hut. We retraced our steps to Flualp and after a late lunch there returned to Zermatt
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5193 ft / 1582 m
    Route:East Ridge
    Trailhead:Flualp  8583 ft / 2616 m
    Grade/Class:PD+, several 5.3 mov
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
    Weather:Snowing, Cold, Calm, Overcast
Ascent Statistics
    Time:5 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Time:4 Hours 30 Minutes

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