Ascent of Finsteraarhorn on 1949-08-05

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Guide Fritz Fuchs
Murray Brush
Carlo Schueller
Date:Friday, August 5, 1949
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Train
    Elevation:14022 ft / 4273 m

Ascent Trip Report

We left the Finsteraarhorn hut at 4:00AM, along with several other parties, headed for the Finsteraarhorn, the highest peak in the Bernese Oberland. We headed up a path to the debris ridge to the saddle by P. 3231, then north over the glacier to the Frühstücksplatz on P. 3616 on the SW ridge. After the customary stop here for “breakfast,” we continued northwards on the glacier to the Hugisattel (7:30AM) by P. 4088 and then up the NW ridge to the top (9:00AM). Fine weather with excellent panoramic views for our summit break. We returned to the hut by 1:00PM, rested until 4:00PM, and then started for the Konkordia hut via the Fiescher glacier (some crevasses) up to the Grünhornlucke (3286m) and down the Grüneggfirn to Konkordiaplatz, where we arrived at the Konkordia hut at 7:30PM.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4022 ft / 1225 m
    Total Elevation Loss:4672 ft / 1424 m
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
    Weather:Cold, Calm, Clear
Good--excellent visibility
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4022 ft / 1225 m
    Route:SW Face, NW Ridge
    Start Trailhead:Finsteraarhorn Hut  10000 ft / 3048 m
    Time:5 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:4672 ft / 1424 m
    Route:NW Ridge, SW Face
    End Trailhead:Koncordia Hut  9350 ft / 2849 m

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