Ascent of Mönch on 1949-08-02

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Guide Fritz Fuchs
Murray Brush
Carlo Schueller
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Tuesday, August 2, 1949
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Train
    Elevation:13474 ft / 4106 m

Ascent Trip Report

Yesterday afternoon Murray, Carlo, and I took the train from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg (2061m) and from there the world famous cog railway to the Jungfraujoch, Europe's highest railway station at 3454m. We checked in to the Berghaus, where we would spend the next three nights. After dinner we went to the Sphinx platform for a remarkable sunset view . Annually on August 1 the Swiss national holiday is traditionally observed by the lighting of countless bonfires throughout Switzerland. Many of these fires were clearly visible this evening throughout the countryside thousands of feet below--quite impressive.

Last evening we engaged a guide, Fritz Fuchs, to program our alpine excursions in the area. Today our first climb was of the Mönch by ESE Ridge. We climbed NE from the Jungfräujoch
over the Aletsch glacier to the south spur (3651m)–then over mixed snow/ice first to a rocky piece of the ridge, then to a steeper icy section near the lower summit and its junction with the narrow, corniced ridge to the rather spacious summit. Though not judged difficult, I had my thrills creeping along the final knife-edge to complete the climb. Great panoramic views of the peaks of the Bernese Oberland. Away this morning at 4:45AM, we topped out at 7:35AM, and were back at the Berghaus by late morning.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:10020 ft / 3054 m
    Route:ESE Ridge
    Trailhead:Jungfraujoch  3454 ft / 1052 m
    Grade/Class:PD, 5.2 pitches
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Great visibility
Ascent Statistics
    Time:2 Hours 50 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time:3 Hours 

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