Ascent of Split Mountain on 2015-09-12

Climber: Steve Sheriff

Date:Saturday, September 12, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Split Mountain
    Elevation:8792 ft / 2679 m

Ascent Trip Report

We climbed Split Mountain from the Atlantic Creek Campground. However the basin we traversed (GPS track) north of Norris Mountain would make an outstanding camp spot. A ranger told us one could get a permit for camping there. From Atlantic Creek Campground the climb was about 12 miles roundtrip with 5,800' total gain.

From the basin it is steep but easy going to Split's south ridge and eventually, with a bit more 3rd class, to the eastern base of the widest chimney (split) seen from Triple Divide Pass. We scrambled up that slot and about 30-40 feet down the other (west) side. From there we traversed north maybe 50 feet to the narrower gulley/chimney that separates Split Mountain's summit block. We ascended that gulley to a good belay (sling on large chockstone) at the top of the gulley; the pitch was wet with a bit of snow, solid 4th class. Facing north from the belay there is a crack and ledge system several feet to climber's left (west). Using that system about ten feet of 3rd/4th class climbing leads to easy ground and the north (higher) summit.

There's a common rappel from a large rock at the southeast corner of the summit; we found fresh slings. One rappel on a 60m rope (plenty to spare) put us back at the eastern side of the final chimney/gulley we climbed a short walk north of gear we left at the initial widest chimney.
Summary Total Data
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Steve Sheriff
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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