Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2015-08-23

Climber: James Barlow

Others in Party:Sam Grant
Samuel Hahn
Dan Conley (Stayed behind)
Date:Sunday, August 23, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

Awfully late in the season for this one... Also, global climate change has taken a massive toll on the White Chuck Glacier. The northern half is nearly non-existent as compared to the 2010 map that I have that shows a much larger glacier. Sad...

We made the approach via the North Fork Sauk River to White Pass, then along the well-defined use trail to some nice camp spots below the southern (remaining) chunk of the White Chuck Glacier. Dan was pretty worked getting to camp, so he opted to skip the summit bid on the second day. After a relaxing evening in camp, we headed to bed for our alpine start. We received beta from a descending group that put us a little high into the next valley headed for Glacier Gap, but it was a nice route. After passing the Glacier Gap campsites, we made our way north on another well-defined use trail until we made our way on to the upper Suittle Glacier. The only remotely challenging section of the ascent was navigating through the broken section of glacier between the upper Suittle and Cool Glaciers around 9,000 ft. This section was about 100 yards in length and had a well-used path through it. We opted to skip the rope and keep the speed up. All the cracks are wide open for the season and this route is in shape for solo ascents as we noted by a descending solo climber who slept below Disappointment Pk and an ascending solo climber that we encountered on our descent. Sam G topped out first, followed by me, then Sam H. We spent over an hour on the hot summit, wishing that smoke had not obscured our views so badly. The descent was uneventful, though long and tedious. Sam G and I bagged Disappointment Pk while waiting for Sam H to descend from the summit of Glacier. Dan was waiting in camp, ready to pack it out to White Pass as planned, but Sam H needed to stop the night in our camp, so we opted to remain in place and get an alpine start for Indian Head the next morning.

Pics GPS track is for summit day only.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:11270 ft / 3435 m
    Total Elevation Loss:2800 ft / 853 m
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:11270 ft / 3435 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 8470 ft / 2582 m; Extra: 2800 ft / 853m
    Loss on way in:2800 ft / 853 m
    Route:Suiattle Glacier to Cool Glacier
    Start Trailhead:2050 ft / 624 m
Descent Statistics
Ascent Part of Trip: Glacier/Indian Head '15 (2 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Glacier Peak2015-08-23 a11270 ft / 3435 m
2Disappointment Peak2015-08-23 b115 ft / 35 m
3Indian Head Peak2015-08-243300 ft / 1006 m
Total Trip Gain: 14685 ft / 4476 m    Total Trip Loss: 4100 ft / 1249 m
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by James Barlow
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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