Ascent of Seven Fingered Jack on 2015-07-04

Climber: Bent Wiencke

Date:Saturday, July 4, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Seven Fingered Jack
    Elevation:9100 ft / 2773 m

Ascent Trip Report

Anybody climbing 7FJ should keep in mind that there is no such things as “the best route”. There is more than one ideal route which also depends on if there is snow. I believe the route I took is straight forward and one to consider regardless if there is snow or not. I try to keep it as short and concise as possible. I also included GPS tracks.

From the Leroy Basin campsite continue on the trail that took you into the campsite. The trail continues NE for a short distance before turning right in a southerly direction. This is the same trail you take when climbing Mt. Maude. Several maps and reports show that this trail can be found straight south of the Leroy Basin campsite. This is not correct! After turning south on the main trail continue a short distance until reaching a creek (the creek could be dry in late summer and fall). The main trail crosses the creek and turns right. A small but distinct trail heading up on the south side of the creek should be visible. Take this trail heading NE and gaining elevation. The trail reaches a plateau and small basin just shy of 6,800 feet. Look for the notch between 7FJ and Mt. Maude.

Between you and the notch you will see several gully’s. If you draw a straight line between you and the notch, take the gully slightly to the right. There is more than one possibility here. Aim for the notch between 7FJ and Mt. Maude and keep climbing and scrambling until reaching 7,750 feet. Here turn N and scramble to the top of another plateau (large ledge). Or continue climbing a little higher and then turn north. Traverse talus and scree field’s always gaining elevation and always staying on the west side and right below the seven fingers. At some point you should be able to make out cairns and a faint boot path. Many parties aim for the wrong finger, the finger that looks the highest. The main summit is the finger furthest to the north. It remains obscured and only becomes obvious to you when you are right below the actual summit. To be sure you are on the right path keep traversing in a northerly direction always gaining elevation until you find yourself on top of a ridgeline with a significant drop off on the northern side. This ridgeline from West to East. Turn E and keep climbing with the abyss always on your left. To keep it simple, aim for the notch above you. What may appear to be the true summit will be on your right. If it’s on your left and you find yourself climbing a very steep gully you are off route. After reaching the notch turn N and down climb a few feet always staying west of the ridgeline and right next to the rock. After a short distance you will reach a gully. Climb the gully and then head north for a short distance. The summit will be right above your head.

7FJ is listed as class 2-3. If you ever find yourself climbing anything class 3 or more you are off route. Use caution and remember the route you took on your ascent. On your way down – especially without snow – everything looks pretty much the same and it can get tricky to find the path you took on your ascent.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Bent Wiencke
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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