Ascent of Snowfield Peak on 2015-07-04

Climber: Diana Yuen

Date:Saturday, July 4, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Snowfield Peak
    Elevation:8347 ft / 2544 m

Ascent Trip Report

Trail to Pyramid Lake is relatively well-maintained with rustic touches. Beyond to Snowfield, trail is extremely brushy and sustained; steep, rocky, rooty. Lots of bugs. Pyramid Lake is rather unimpressive - a stagnant pool. Trail is well defined all the way to camp.

Temps were hot - 80+. Took our time getting to 5900' camp on ridge (with tarn) near the base of the Colonial Glacier. Lots of running water. Lots of waterfalls and glacial melt, and an impressive glacier with blue ice. Glacier had crevasses but was easy to navigate. Getting to 5900' camp from 5400' camp was challenging due to steep loose talus. 6.5 hrs TH to camp.

Started 4:05 AM next day from camp. Descended rocks to closest snow patch and roped up. Colonial Glacier is mellow. There is a neat bivy spot at the saddle between Colonial and Neve Glaciers. Lots of running water.

Neve Glacier was very broken up lower and higher. Lots of creative crevasse weaving on pretty mellow glacier. Unroped at the ridge and followed an excellent quality boot path up to a very obvious notch around 8100'. Downclimb about 40' (looks scary but holds are excellent) and scramble up class 3 terrain to summit. Can be loose, or stick to slabs.

Summit is large and has 360 degree views of the North Cascades. There was a haze due to wildfires from further north. Downclimbing the class 3 was easy and took about 10 minutes. Crampons on the way up but easy plunge stepping without crampons on the way down. Many other parties but climbing different objectives or different timeframes. No pickets needed.

Got back to cars 6:09 PM (me) - 6:25 (last person in group). Not enough time to make the Cascade Creamery, again.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope

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