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Ascent of Mount Rainier on 2015-07-02

Climber: Mark Smith

Others in Party:Austin D. Smith -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Glenn Campbell
Date:Thursday, July 2, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Rainier
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:14411 ft / 4392 m

Ascent Trip Report

The DC route, as it is called, was still in good shape despite the warmest June in Seattle on record. The top 2/3 of the cleaver (600 vertical feet) was bypassed by a nice boot-packed trail on the south-side snowfield. Only the bottom 250' of trail was on the cleaver itself (which is not as loose or dangerous as I expected based on the reports of others). There were 5 ladders in place, 4 of which were necessary; one section of 300' of fixed rope picketed into 7 or 8 segments; 3 or 4 pickets in random places to be clipped as running protection, one of which was missing its carabiner; and about 10' of knotted rope to be used as handholds. We stayed a night at Camp Muir and then a second at Ingraham Flats, leaving for the summit at 12:30 AM. Reached the summit at 5:45 AM. Winds varied on the summit day from calm to 20 mph. Snow was soft by the time we returned to our tent at 10:30 AM. Obtaining a mid-week permit to stay at Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats was not a problem as neither camp was at capacity.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:9171 ft / 2794 m
    Extra Gain:100 ft / 30 m
    Route:Disappointment Cleaver
    Trailhead:5440 ft / 1658 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp



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