Ascent of Dome Peak on 2015-07-01

Climber: Michael Lewis

Others in Party:Fletcher Jordan
Rob Merfeld
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, July 1, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Dome Peak
    Elevation:8920 ft / 2718 m

Ascent Trip Report

Fletcher Jordan and his friend Rob invited me to join them on the Bachelor Creek/Ilswoot ridge route. The Downey Creek trail was in good shape. Bachelor Creek trail started out decently as well up to 3500'. We encountered a couple women who were porting some gear left from the scene of an accident on Dome a week earlier. They gave a nearly perfect description of how the rest of the trail would go: Heavy brush, cross creek at 4100 (bad advice BTW), more heavy brush, swamp, down trees, burn area, meadows, steep drop to Cub Lake and then up. Not long after our chat we bumped into to older gents who had just done Sinister which completed their 99th and 98th Bulgers. The glacier was apparently all beat up with an open bergshrund that they had to climb through. They made it sound reasonable but my guess is once you've done that many it's difficult to be phased by anything. We were thinking of possibly adding Sinister but after their account we dropped that idea. Within minutes the trail got super brushy. We filled up on water at our creek crossing. An F-18 buzzed us after crossing it. Heat of the day made the climb into alpine territory very difficult for me until around 5500'. The 700' drop to Cub lake was also unpleasant. Once on Ilswoot Ridge, bugs were plentiful as was full moon light. We saw nobody else on the mountain. On summit day the glacier was ablated down low but inactive on route. The final rock is very exposed but easy scrambling. I set a couple pickets and led the ending, first lead. Amazing scenery! Best bulger yet. Once past the glacier the snow was the perfect consistency for boot skiing. That evening we hiked up along one of the creeks coming from a basin below Spire Point to get a look at the view in full moon light for a bonus 1k feet. The next morning we left early to beat the heat and made it to Downey Creek before it began to really heat up. But after 1 mile it became unbearably hot and I fell behind, only catching them at the car. We hung out at the Sauk River later to cool off and jumped from a rope into the stagnant Stillaguamish on the drive out. All-in-all the best trip of the year so far and very memorable. I'm grateful to have partners willing to have a good time in the mountains.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:11905 ft / 3627 m
    Total Elevation Loss:11905 ft / 3628 m
    Round-Trip Distance:30 mi / 48.3 km
    Grade/Class:Class 4 Grade II Gla
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
    Nights Spent:2 nights away from roads
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:9205 ft / 2805 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7505 ft / 2287 m; Extra: 1700 ft / 518m
    Loss on way in:1700 ft / 518 m
    Distance:15 mi / 24.1 km
    Route:Bachelor Creek
    Start Trailhead:Downey Creek TH  1415 ft / 431 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:10205 ft / 3110 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 7505 ft / 2287 m; Extra: 2700 ft / 822m
    Gain on way out:2700 ft / 822 m
    Distance:15 mi / 24.1 km
    Route:Bachelor Creek
    End Trailhead:Downey Creek TH  1415 ft / 431 m

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