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Ascent of Mount Rainier on 2015-07-02

Climber: Austin D. Smith

Others in Party:Mark Smith -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Glenn Campbell
Date:Thursday, July 2, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Rainier
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:14411 ft / 4392 m

Ascent Trip Report

We started hiking from Paradise at 12:53PM on Tuesday (6-31-15). Our goal was to get up to Camp Muir that night and then advance our camp to Ingraham Flats for the second night and summit Thursday. It took us about 6 hours from the parking lot to hike up the Muir snow field and get to camp. It was in the upper 60's during the day with almost no wind up at Muir! We chose to pitch a tent and sleep on the snow as we didn't want to get woken up by the climbers getting an alpine start. Saw a fox right as we were heading to bed!

The next morning (7-01-15) we got up around 8:00am The snow was freezing every night which provided us with nice snow conditions for trudging our way to Ingraham. We packed up our camp and headed out on the boot track. It took us around an hour and a half to climb the 1000 feet to Ingraham. The snow ended around 10,900 feet right above the Cathedral Rocks (Cathedral Gap I think its called). the route skirted its way up the rock band for about 150ft and then crossed back to the snow (Ingraham Glacier) at about 11,050 feet. From there it was only about 10 minutes to the flats and got there around 11:00am. There were plenty of tent spaces and we got someone's from the night before who was just heading out. Incredibly there was almost no wind and it was fairly warm...maybe in the mid to upper 40's. We made lunch, filtered a bunch of water and packed our packs for summit day. I got about a 2 hour nap, got up to eat dinner and the three of us headed to bed around 5pm. We set the alarm for 11:30 PM.

We got up at 11:30 that night. The wind had picked up a little during he night but the temps were still fairly warm. Were hiking by 1PM and were the last ones to leave camp. You could see the other teams heading up from Muir not far off. We roped up right from camp. Glenn lead and got right in the pretty obvious boot boot that had been beat into the snow. Within 5 minutes we came to he first ladder crossing. This one was fairly small and the ladder was pretty secured. I was a bit nervous as this was my first ever ladder crossing but it turned out to be not a big deal as there were boards layed across it walk across. There were 2 crossing before the cleaver and the second was was fairly intimidating as the ladder was slanted downwards so you had to cross it facing your body up the mountain and carefully side stepping your way across or taking one big step in the middle and quickly moving to the other side. We reached the Cleaver around 1:45 Rest of TR Coming Soon!
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Me approaching a ladder crossing on our descent on the DC Route around 13,000ft. Glenn has successfully crossed. This was my 18th summit on the list of the 20 major cascade volcanoes! Photo by Mark Smith (2015-07-02). Photo by Austin D. Smith.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:9011 ft / 2746 m
    Round-Trip Distance:16 mi / 25.8 km
    Route:Disappointment Cleaver
    Trailhead:Paradise  5400 ft / 1645 m
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear



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