Ascent of South Early Winter Spire on 2015-06-21

Climber: Evan Battaglia

Others in Party:Rob Busack <9111>
Date:Sunday, June 21, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:South Early Winter Spire
    Elevation:7807 ft / 2379 m

Ascent Trip Report

Southwest Rib (~5.8) Intermediate climb, Rob as leader.

P1 - I lead. Crux was quite tough for me, I tried going up straight / to left, ended up going to the right, holding on to tree, traversing a bit back to crack. Rest was enjoyable stemming.
P2 - Wavy crack -- Glad I didn't lead as the exposure would probably have terrified me
P3 - P4 -- both very short and very easy, so we linked together. P3 was less than the 80ft mentioned by the book, so I thought I hadn't gone far enough and explored up ahead (might be away to avoid Nervous Nelly?)
P5 - Nervous Nelly -- also glad I didn't lead. Just one little bit is tough -- if your tall you can reach hand hold, but even then, following, it was a bit tough to pull myself up
P6 - Bear Hug -- Was a bit difficult for me. #5 cam is a must. I did it true bear hug style and really scratched up my ankles, bloodied them up a bit. Consider taping your ankles. Other people apparently did not to it bear hug style but found a way to stick to the left crack. After the bear hug, traverses to the right -- I went a bit further then the book suggested I think and around corner where communication was difficult (walkie-talkies didn't work)
P7 - Pretty easy I think (although I was following), one slightly spicy move but protected with a bolt. We stopped a bit too soon.
P8-P9 Easy climbing up the aretes. After you see the horn and can see down into the gully (after the gully's steep cliff), I managed to traverse then downclimb about 6-10 feet (protected in one spot) and walk up the gully to a tree (which I used as belay anchor, backing up with a cam). Easy and fun.
P10 (our 8th pitch), fairly straightforward I think (although I followed it) crack takes #4 - #5, pretty short pitch.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2457 ft / 748 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2457 ft / 748 m
    Route:Southwest Rib
    Start Trailhead:5350 ft / 1630 m
Descent Statistics
    Route:South Arete

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