Ascent of Glacier Peak on 2015-06-13

Climber: David Kruse

Date:Saturday, June 13, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Glacier Peak
    Elevation:10520 ft / 3206 m

Ascent Trip Report

We left Friday. Made quick work heading up past Mackinaw to the switchbacks to White Pass. There is running water on the switchbacks (good filter spots at ~4200’ and right at the top before you hit the PCT, as well as after White Pass along Foam Creek trail) so you don’t need to carry much. We took the foam creek trail around to the normal route, and didn’t try cutting over the ridge. Snow bridges in the gulleys are starting to melt out and I broke through at least one, but overall a pretty easy day. We ended up camping on snow at around 6800’ just south of the foot of White Chuck glacier, same place as last years late (Sept.) attempt. We camped on full snow, if you move farther north and west there were other options. Hunted around and found some running water or frozen water within 200 feet, but took some detective work. One other group near us seemed content to melt, so you could just bring the fuel to do it.

Summit day (Sat) we left later than other groups (6-ish). Trail is easy to follow right now. Not overly technical, one long firm sidehill traverse at around 7400’ that was much easier later in the day. Moving up the cleaver, there was a pretty obvious exit point onto the Gerdine glacier if you follow the paths. Glacier was nice and easy to move on. Transition to the Cool glacier was a piece of cake (compared to Sept last year). The final run up to the peak was a bit steeper and firm but had well kicked steps, I found it less intense than Hood. Main note is that we didn’t see a lot of water above 7500’, so carry what you’ll want. I ended up sharing a fair amount with folks who didn’t bring enough. Descent was uneventful, with the exception of some rocks coming down off of Disappointment Peak as the day got later. Be aware there, the current foot path runs a bit high on the glacier. We chilled back at camp and enjoyed the views, then headed out on Sunday.

Overall, conditions were great. Great views, awesome mountain. One of my favorites. For photographers, clouds seemed to always settle in later in the afternoon but be clear in the morning, so if you want great shots get up earlier.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp

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