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Ascent of Forbidden Peak on 2015-05-31

Climber: Diana Yuen

Others in Party:Vlad
Andrei
Han
Date:Sunday, May 31, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Forbidden Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8815 ft / 2686 m

Ascent Trip Report

23 hrs+ C2C. Started 4:13 am, high camp by 7:30, West Ridge notch by 11:20, on route after 11:30, first team summited 2 pm, second team slowed by rappelling party, summit by 2:20, off summit 2:45, three single rope rappels, two doubles, a simulclimb, then three raps down the snow-filled couloir. Slowed by party in front of us - off the couloir after 11 pm. Cars at 3:52 am.

Snow was softer than preferred but still somewhat firm. Glacier had lots of open crevasses and moats, couloir had many open moats. Took rock up to the notch. Roped up for glacier, placed pickets.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles



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