Ascent of Sloan Peak on 2014-09-07

Climber: Kristian Kalsing

Date:Sunday, September 7, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Sloan Peak
    Elevation:7835 ft / 2388 m

Ascent Trip Report

No issues with any of the creek crossings on the approach from Sloan Peak Trail 648 via Cougar Creek.
This was my first time up there. Based on the accounts of two other groups coming down as we were coming up, the snow bridges normally used earlier in the season were all melted out. Both these groups did not find a way across the glacier that they were comfortable with and both groups turned around. However, we still found an easy way through, heading straight for the East face about halfway across the glacier. The crux was a 30 ft section of traversing on a 60 degree snow slope between the moat at the top and a deep open crevasse below. Depending on your comfort levels, consider pickets/screws for protection. We didn't feel we needed it.
After crossing the glacier, an obvious goat/climber trail leads around to the final scramble up a gully on the west side. We scrambled to the very top of the gully to the summit ridge. On climbers left, there is a couple of class 4 moves before the final 100-200 ft of class 3 scrambling to the summit.
GPS track starts from our bivy spot at 5800 ft, 300 ft south of the main climbers trail. Lovely secluded spot, with great views of Glacier Peak and several nearby trickles of melt water.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Goat/climber trail leading to the final scramble on Sloan Peak (2014-09-07). Photo by Kristian Kalsing.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6445 ft / 1964 m
    Extra Gain:290 ft / 88 m
    Round-Trip Distance:14.2 mi / 22.9 km
    Trailhead:Sloan Peak Trail 648  1970 ft / 600 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Bivouac
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Time:7 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time:6 Hours 
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Kristian Kalsing
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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