Ascent of Mount Humphreys on 2014-08-31

Climber: Rakesh .

Date:Sunday, August 31, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Humphreys
    Elevation:13986 ft / 4262 m

Ascent Trip Report

We climbed Mt. Humphreys via its East Arete over the long weekend. The route was first climbed in 1935 by legendary American mountaineer Norman Clyde. My two-wheel drive sedan could only take us to 7400 ft (farther than any trip-report suggests), which added a few extra miles of hike in 102 degrees afternoon temperature. The trail head begins at 9000 ft, and we reached our camp at 10960 ft, next to a breathtaking beautiful lake. The summit day was indeed one of my best mountain days so far, it was hours of climbing on some of the finest rocks. Blocks, towers, and exposed traverses characterize this route, which has been referred to as the "Exum Ridge" of the Sierra. We free soloed everything including all the low Class-5 pitches, except 2 pitches which were 5.5 on the final 200 ft to the summit beyond "Married Man's Point". That notch is called so because on the first ascent of Humphreys in 1904 some of the party members decided to remain behind that point, while others went on, citing the fact that the difficulties ahead appeared to be too difficult for those with married responsibilities :)

Climbed with Kelly.
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