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Ascent of Mount Stuart on 2006-08-13

Climber: Milda Tautvydas

Date:Sunday, August 13, 2006
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Stuart
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9415 ft / 2869 m

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed N Ridge with David Salinger on 08/13/2006 as a 3 day trip. Day 1 we drove from Seattle to TH and hiked on trail over Ingalls Pass, past Ingalls Lake to the last legal camp near Stuart Pass and camped (among a herd of goats). Day 2 From Stuart Pass: left the trail at Stuart Pass and contoured easterly and then northeasterly on the south, right, side of the ridge and ascended to the saddle at the base of the West Ridge and contoured, then ascended to Goat Pass Goat Pass at ~7,650', crossed the pass and accessed the Stuart Glacier. We crossed the Stuart glacier easterly (unroped), ascended a dry gully to the 8,200' notch in the N. Ridge of Stuart (unroped), and roped up here (at the notch). We simul-climbed from the 8,200' notch to the Gendarme pitch without stopping. We took a long lunch break with our shoes off just below the first 5.9 pitch of the lower Gendarme (over an hour, had plenty of time to enjoy the views), then climbed the two interesting pitches, the lower Gendarme pitch was a fantastic crack that can be climbed as a "light" layback; the second 5.9 pitch of the Gendarme was an awkward off-width crack, where we found a new, welded #4 cam shoved in deeply right at the crux!! It was tempting to pull on it since it was placed exactly where I needed to shove my entire forearm into the crack! We continued to climb straight up to the top of the Gendarme (wrong way? but fun, exposed climbing) and had to do a short rappel to get back on the North Ridge. We regained the ridge and climbed quickly to the summit. On the summit we unroped, enjoyed the views for a long while, then descended the south face (Cascadian Couloir variations) to Ingalls Creek and circled around Mt. Stuart on trail, up to Ingalls Lake back to our camp at Stuart Pass. On Day 3 we hiked out and enjoyed the scenery along the way (note: we have climbed W Ridge a few times with variations (some with real climbing!); have skied south face/couloirs several times). The North ridge offers fantastic climbing, a combination of a fantastic setting/views and superb rock with interesting challenges. A classic.
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