Ascent of Mount Maude on 2014-06-29

Climber: Jeffrey Wright

Date:Sunday, June 29, 2014
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Mount Maude
    Elevation:7400 ft / 2255 m

Ascent Trip Report

Attempted North Face of Maude. Turned around because of loose, wet snow conditions. No avy danger, just not ideal for steep snow climb. The first move onto the North Face Route crossed over a snow bridge with a 40ft drop to a 10ft wall of slush. We never saw the whole route from the bottom so we were uncertain of what the rest of the route was like. We took the "High Route" which is an old, unmaintained trail which bridges the Carne Mountain trail (established) to the Leroy Creek trail (established until it makes the sharp turn to the SE, then it's snow and bushwacking with a few, sparse cairns). The High Route is an old trail which Fred Beckey calls an "old sheep driveway". Much of it was still under snow. Routefinding was not terribly difficult but annoying and meandering and slow. Would recommend taking Leroy Creek whether your destination is 7 Fingered Jack or the 7FJ Col or Maude or Ice Lakes. The High Route was scenic but long and difficult. Also, too late for the North Face route, I think. The S-SW ridge looks do-able. Make sure to capture the saddle, then go back into the Ice Lakes basin and ascend the side of the ridge to where it flattens out. You can't take the ridge straight up from the saddle. We took Carne Mountain Trail up and Leroy Creek down, camping at the saddle just below Ice Lakes. The stream crossing on Phelps trail were adventurous. You'll definitely get wet boots but never any deeper than a few inches. Several large downed trees on Phelps Trail from avalanches this past season.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3800 ft / 1158 m
    Trailhead:3600 ft / 1097 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Jeffrey Wright
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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