Ascent of Mount Hood on 2014-06-09

Climber: Michael Wanberg

Others in Party:Jeremy B
James R
Emily M
Matt M
Natalie N
Date:Monday, June 9, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Hood
    Elevation:11239 ft / 3425 m

Ascent Trip Report

A tag-along with a friends' group turned into taking a crew of six of my own, including one first-timer. Matt, Emily, and Natalie began from Timberline about 1pm, while James and I started up after 3pm. The conditions were great; sun and a breeze with temps in the low 50s through the ski area. The snow was soft, but with the climbing snowshoes it was fine - I love heel-lifters!

James and I made it up to the Triangle Moraine (~9300') just before 7pm, and immediately set to work smoothing out a bivy site and putting up wind walls. We should have started the snow-melting for water sooner, it ended up taking way too long! Extra elevation gain was from climbing a few hundred feet to check in with my friend's crew, who were camped ~9600'. We kind of dinked around, but were finally asleep sometime after 10 (amazing sunset!).

Our alarms sounded about 3am, and Jeremy met us about 3:30. We were moving slowly around camp, and were finally on our way shortly before 5am. Great conditions (firm, with 'steps') all the way to the summit through the 1 O'clock Chute (aka Mazama Chute) just east of the Old Chute; this route skipped the 'catwalk' which was melting out. The sun rose for us as we cleared the top of the chute, and we made the short walk over to the summit uneventfully at about 7:30am.

After some food/water/pictures we were back on our way down, pausing only to let a group of Mazamas clear out from the route under the cliffs before following. We quickly descended to camp and were starting to break everything down and repack by about 9:30am. Jeremy departed on his snowboard from there and lounged in the Lodge while we made our way down. We had camp cleared and were on our way just before 11am, and proceeded by seated glissade. Because of my 'jet-sled' device, I was able to make it from just above the Palmer lift all the way down to the parking lot - more than 2 miles and 2500' of drop! The rest of my crew made it most of the way down by glissade before walking the final quarter mile or so.

Great crew, great day!

3:30p-6:50p Timberline to camp
4:55a-7:30a camp to summit
7:55a-about9:30a summit to camp
10:50a-noon camp to Timberline

Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5639 ft / 1718 m
    Total Elevation Loss:5639 ft / 1718 m
    Round-Trip Distance:6 mi / 9.7 km
    Grade/Class:Class 4
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Snowshoes, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Partly Cloudy
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:5639 ft / 1718 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 5339 ft / 1627 m; Extra: 300 ft / 91m
    Loss on way in:300 ft / 91 m
    Distance:3 mi / 4.8 km
    Route:South: 1 O'clock Chute
    Start Trailhead:Timberline TH  5900 ft / 1798 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:5339 ft / 1627 m
    Distance:3 mi / 4.8 km
    End Trailhead:Timberline TH  5900 ft / 1798 m

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